The main entrance

Fushimi Inari Taisha is a large shinto shrine complex in southern Kyoto. Here it is on the map. It began in the 8th century to revere Inari, the god of the rice harvest. Inari has always been an important god. Few (if any) images were ever created of him and he uses foxes as his messengers. The foxes acting on Inari’s behalf are even called Inari.

The shrine has a large complex of buildings at the foot of Mt. Inari. This is where most of the shrine’s activity takes place. Large public ceremonies are held in the halls there and many visitors, especially the elderly, never go beyond to see what’s on the mountain. This complex is well worth your visit but make sure you afford plenty of time for your visit to Fushimi Inari Taisha so that you can explore the mountain paths.

Fushimi Inari Taisha is an important shrine complex. It is the headquarters shrine of all Inari shinto shrines in Japan (some 40,000 of them). Over time, the shrine came to be associated with business in general. Fushimi Inari Taisha receives a large number of donations and requests for blessings by businesses large and small all over Japan.

Starting up Mt. Inari

One of the ways businesses donate to the shrine is purchasing large torii gates. These gates are the large, red spirit gates that are so well known to the rest of the world as a symbol of Japan. These torii gates are so numerous that they form tunnels that march up and down Mt. Inari. They branch at certain points and allow a visitor to choose their way up and down the mountain.

There aren’t many places in the world that I would describe as “magical.” Fushimi Inari Taisha is defintely one of them. There is an atmosphere there that is easy to remember but difficult to describe. The shrine complex at the foot of the mountain is impressive but the real soul of Fushimi Inari Taisha is on the sides of Mt. Inari.

The forest growth is thick and rich. Everywhere nature’s presense is felt. There is a quiet that settles on the whole of the mountain. The torii tunnels don’t simply move you from one place to another. They also move you from your ordinary frame of mind to a mystical one. The tunnels cease every so often and let you out into a clearing in the thick forest. Some clearings hold minor shrines, some hold what look like graveyards, others hold shops or restaurants. Many of them open out to a space set aside to rever the spirit contained within a large tree or ancient stone. Higher up the mountain are sites that hold a collection of carved stones that stand as markers.

Some historical sites in Japan can transport you to the nation’s past. Fushimi Inari Taisha goes beyond that to transport you to the world of Japan’s oldest myths and stories. As odd as it sounds, when I was there I doubt it would have surprised me to meet a spirit or monster from Japanese lore treading the mountain paths.

My traveling companions and I spent the day on the sides of Mt. Inari. We saw most of the shrine’s grounds and got a real workout from all the up and downhill walking. The people traveling with me usually didn’t show any real interest in religious or historical sites but this one was different. They paused with me to gaze in wonder at the many small and ancient sites on the mountain and remark how they felt traveling through bright red tunnels of spirit gates.

If you ever have the chance to see Kyoto I would recommend Fushimi Inari Taisha as the number one site. I am confident it will have a lasting effect on your view of Japan. As amazing and secluded as it is, it isn’t at all difficult to visit. There’s a train station that lets you out by the road leading to the main shrine complex. The train station is even named after Fushimi Inari Taisha. You can’t miss it.

The main entrance

Kiyomizu Dera (Kiyomizu Temple) could be called the premier temple of Kyoto. Here it is on the map. This Buddhist temple was first built in AD 798 and devoted to the deity that resided within an 11-headed Kanon statue. The current buildings were built in 1633 under orders from Tokugawa Iemitsu. It is a large temple complex that holds several famous sites and contains a good-sized shinto shrine. If you have time to only see one temple in Kyoto this would be it.

The temple complex rests on a hill and affords beautiful scenes of Kyoto. A large veranda facing the city is one of the famous sites at Kiyomizu. I read an old story about a nobleman chased by bandits on the temple grounds who broke off a screen door and glided to safety off the veranda. There’s even a common Japanese expression that specifically mentions this veranda.

Stone steps lead up to a shinto shrine with elegant buildings and a festive air. Two famous stones promise success in love if you can walk between them with your eyes closed. I’m guessing they work because my marriage has lasted almost seven years with no signs of a breakup.

Several guidebooks warn people away from Kiyomizu because of the “commerical feeling” of the place with numerous stalls selling amulets and similar items. The stalls didn’t seem all that noticeable to me and certainly didn’t detract from my enjoyment of the temple grounds.

Entrance to the shinto shrine area

The buildings and religious sites at Kiyomizu Dera really are breathtaking. Plan to spend the better part of a day here and drink it all in.  There’s a reason why photos of this place appear in so many posters and calendars around the world. Do yourself a favor and see the real thing.

Towards the back of the temple grounds you can find paths that lead you further uphill and to some buildings that are not as commanding as those towards the front. The crowds decrease back here and some great little shops serve Japanese food. I still remember slurping cold noodles and watching teachers lead a pack of preschool children through the grounds. My Japanese was good enough to tell me that the preschoolers thought the restroom entrance was far more interesting than the temple buildings. Perhaps one can be too young to appreciate historical landmarks.

The Lovers' Stone

I usually like to move fast and see a lot of sites during the day. Some places, such as Kiyomizu Dera, captivate me so much that I cannot help but find a seat and simply take in all that I see. Those who maintain the temple grounds took expert care in allowing the right trees and other plants to grow in such a way that they accentuate the buildings masterfully. From the flowing water to the rich, green moss to the ancient stone blocks that prop up certain buildings on the hillside – everything creates an image that asks you to stop and simply contemplate what you’re seeing. It’s so well done that the modern clothes of the people walking by can’t spoil the illusion that you’ve stepped back in time.

This veranda is famous for good reason

Students hope drinking this water will improve their test scores

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The Kyoto Train Station is the central train and bus station for the city of Kyoto, Japan. Here it is on the map. I’ve been there many times and every time it impresses me. Kyoto Station (it’s official name to the Japanese) is an immense complex. You might be tempted to call it a building but after you’ve been there you’ll drop that word. The complex rises many stories into the air and many stories below ground. It houses a very large train station, a large bus station, a shopping center with many restaurants and countless other things that would take days to explore. The underground section extends over a larger area than the part above ground. As impressive as it is, Tokyo has even larger stations.

Visiting it is an experience – a very cool one. It’s difficult for me to try and describe what it’s like to be there. It’s like someone took a space station and plopped it down in the middle of Kyoto. The station isn’t beautiful. In fact, it’s rather ugly but the immense scale of the edifice fills one with such awe that it takes time to be able to sort out opinions. If you walk in through the main entrance at street level you’ll look up to see a huge steel ceiling in the distance far above you. Gigantic steel beams and plates make up a cityscape of the future that surrounds you and, if you’re not fond of cities, might threaten to engulf you. A series of escalators and stairs form a highway that stretches way up towards a window of sky that, if followed, will take you to the observation deck on top. Once there, you can take in a great view of Kyoto in every direction in the open air.

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If you can break away from the view of the city and plunge back into the station you’ll notice that escalators and walkways branch off in every direction to allow one to explore the immense cave of steel. After reading countless science-fiction novels of people building giant cities of the future it is humbling to actually stand in one. Thankfully, the many attractive shops and restaurants that abound in the station allow one to temporarily escape into more familiar settings.

A long walkway stretches the length of the station towards the top underneath the main roof. If you can find it it is definitely worth your time to walk the path. You’ll find interesting courtyards and vistas of the station at the other end. As impressive as the views can be I found the most interesting shops to be underground. After spending most of a day exploring the station I thought it rather odd that the place built to serve as a means to reach one’s destination became a destination itself. It also seemed odd that Kyoto, the city firmly and fondly linked with Japan’s past, would want to present itself as a city of the future by building such a place. I would recommend you visit it but if you visit Kyoto at all I doubt you’ll miss it.

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When I planned my trip to Japan in 2006 I wanted to visit Kyoto and Tokyo. In the minds of the Japanese, Kyoto is Japan’s past and Tokyo is Japan’s present. Although it wasn’t my first time in Kyoto it was the first time I got to choose where we stopped. On the way to a temple I happened upon a large graveyard by a river. I wish I would have spent more time trying to learn the name of the place. The photos here don’t give a very good sense of how immense the place was. I’ve visited a number of graveyards in Japan during my past trips but I don’t remember seeing one this big.

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It was a sunny and peaceful day and the graveyard added to the calm I felt as I walked about Kyoto. There were other people there enjoying the site as I was but not very many. I can see now why graveyard scenes appear in anime and manga so often. Off the top of my head I can remember scenes from Maison Ikkoku, the first episode of Gigantic Formula and the Nadesico movie but graveyards appear frequently in anime. They are tranquil and scenic places where you not only pay your respects to loved ones but also pause to reflect. This graveyard in Kyoto had the same effect on the people traveling with me that day and I thought nothing short of a natural catastrophe could make them pause!

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According to Japanese Buddhist tradition, when a person dies their birthday is no longer celebrated. The day they died becomes their deathday and that is instead remembered by loved ones. An honorary death name is bestowed upon them in a ceremony performed by a Buddhist priest and that name is carved into their grave marker. The grave markers are quite attractive and tastefully done. The mix of old and new added depth to the site.

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