Char's Zaku II from Mobile Suit Gundam

Tokyo-based Bitec Global Japan makes false teeth and they’ve decided new job applicants should prove their skill by building and painting a model of Char’s Zaku II from Mobile Suit Gundam. Want to work in dentistry? Better brush up your model building!

Anime News Network translated the information from Mainichi Shimbun‘s Web site.

But will it make the cut for the next World Cup?

An inventor in Japan has created a robot that can play soccer. No, you don’t have to worry about World Cup being taken over by robots (although I’d start watching it if that happened). The main point here is to show that robots can be endowed with a sense of balance. I have heard many English speakers talk about how to advance artificial intelligence but I’m glad the Japanese have a keen focus on where that artificial intelligence will live: a mechanical body.

The inventor talks about how he’s a Gundam fan but look at the robot’s head. Looks like he’s a Gurren Lagann fan too!

In order to see Video Daikaiju’s catalog you have to send them $2 and wait for it to come in the mail.  It’s a shame they haven’t put their catalog on their Web site yet.  Hopefully they’ll take care of that soon.  If you’re curious to see any of Toho’s classic sci-fi movies then Video Daikaiju are the people you want to talk to.

The main entrance

Fushimi Inari Taisha is a large shinto shrine complex in southern Kyoto. Here it is on the map. It began in the 8th century to revere Inari, the god of the rice harvest. Inari has always been an important god. Few (if any) images were ever created of him and he uses foxes as his messengers. The foxes acting on Inari’s behalf are even called Inari.

The shrine has a large complex of buildings at the foot of Mt. Inari. This is where most of the shrine’s activity takes place. Large public ceremonies are held in the halls there and many visitors, especially the elderly, never go beyond to see what’s on the mountain. This complex is well worth your visit but make sure you afford plenty of time for your visit to Fushimi Inari Taisha so that you can explore the mountain paths.

Fushimi Inari Taisha is an important shrine complex. It is the headquarters shrine of all Inari shinto shrines in Japan (some 40,000 of them). Over time, the shrine came to be associated with business in general. Fushimi Inari Taisha receives a large number of donations and requests for blessings by businesses large and small all over Japan.

Starting up Mt. Inari

One of the ways businesses donate to the shrine is purchasing large torii gates. These gates are the large, red spirit gates that are so well known to the rest of the world as a symbol of Japan. These torii gates are so numerous that they form tunnels that march up and down Mt. Inari. They branch at certain points and allow a visitor to choose their way up and down the mountain.

There aren’t many places in the world that I would describe as “magical.” Fushimi Inari Taisha is defintely one of them. There is an atmosphere there that is easy to remember but difficult to describe. The shrine complex at the foot of the mountain is impressive but the real soul of Fushimi Inari Taisha is on the sides of Mt. Inari.

The forest growth is thick and rich. Everywhere nature’s presense is felt. There is a quiet that settles on the whole of the mountain. The torii tunnels don’t simply move you from one place to another. They also move you from your ordinary frame of mind to a mystical one. The tunnels cease every so often and let you out into a clearing in the thick forest. Some clearings hold minor shrines, some hold what look like graveyards, others hold shops or restaurants. Many of them open out to a space set aside to rever the spirit contained within a large tree or ancient stone. Higher up the mountain are sites that hold a collection of carved stones that stand as markers.

Some historical sites in Japan can transport you to the nation’s past. Fushimi Inari Taisha goes beyond that to transport you to the world of Japan’s oldest myths and stories. As odd as it sounds, when I was there I doubt it would have surprised me to meet a spirit or monster from Japanese lore treading the mountain paths.

My traveling companions and I spent the day on the sides of Mt. Inari. We saw most of the shrine’s grounds and got a real workout from all the up and downhill walking. The people traveling with me usually didn’t show any real interest in religious or historical sites but this one was different. They paused with me to gaze in wonder at the many small and ancient sites on the mountain and remark how they felt traveling through bright red tunnels of spirit gates.

If you ever have the chance to see Kyoto I would recommend Fushimi Inari Taisha as the number one site. I am confident it will have a lasting effect on your view of Japan. As amazing and secluded as it is, it isn’t at all difficult to visit. There’s a train station that lets you out by the road leading to the main shrine complex. The train station is even named after Fushimi Inari Taisha. You can’t miss it.

The main entrance

Kiyomizu Dera (Kiyomizu Temple) could be called the premier temple of Kyoto. Here it is on the map. This Buddhist temple was first built in AD 798 and devoted to the deity that resided within an 11-headed Kanon statue. The current buildings were built in 1633 under orders from Tokugawa Iemitsu. It is a large temple complex that holds several famous sites and contains a good-sized shinto shrine. If you have time to only see one temple in Kyoto this would be it.

The temple complex rests on a hill and affords beautiful scenes of Kyoto. A large veranda facing the city is one of the famous sites at Kiyomizu. I read an old story about a nobleman chased by bandits on the temple grounds who broke off a screen door and glided to safety off the veranda. There’s even a common Japanese expression that specifically mentions this veranda.

Stone steps lead up to a shinto shrine with elegant buildings and a festive air. Two famous stones promise success in love if you can walk between them with your eyes closed. I’m guessing they work because my marriage has lasted almost seven years with no signs of a breakup.

Several guidebooks warn people away from Kiyomizu because of the “commerical feeling” of the place with numerous stalls selling amulets and similar items. The stalls didn’t seem all that noticeable to me and certainly didn’t detract from my enjoyment of the temple grounds.

Entrance to the shinto shrine area

The buildings and religious sites at Kiyomizu Dera really are breathtaking. Plan to spend the better part of a day here and drink it all in.  There’s a reason why photos of this place appear in so many posters and calendars around the world. Do yourself a favor and see the real thing.

Towards the back of the temple grounds you can find paths that lead you further uphill and to some buildings that are not as commanding as those towards the front. The crowds decrease back here and some great little shops serve Japanese food. I still remember slurping cold noodles and watching teachers lead a pack of preschool children through the grounds. My Japanese was good enough to tell me that the preschoolers thought the restroom entrance was far more interesting than the temple buildings. Perhaps one can be too young to appreciate historical landmarks.

The Lovers' Stone

I usually like to move fast and see a lot of sites during the day. Some places, such as Kiyomizu Dera, captivate me so much that I cannot help but find a seat and simply take in all that I see. Those who maintain the temple grounds took expert care in allowing the right trees and other plants to grow in such a way that they accentuate the buildings masterfully. From the flowing water to the rich, green moss to the ancient stone blocks that prop up certain buildings on the hillside – everything creates an image that asks you to stop and simply contemplate what you’re seeing. It’s so well done that the modern clothes of the people walking by can’t spoil the illusion that you’ve stepped back in time.

This veranda is famous for good reason

Students hope drinking this water will improve their test scores

Tokyo City Hall. The observation deck at the top is worth a visit!

I am tired of hearing Tokyo called an ugly city. In guide books, newspapers and travel Web sites I am constantly seeing people badmouth the aesthetics of the people of Tokyo. I first saw Tokyo in 1991 and most recently in 2006 I’ve lived there for periods of time on several occasions. Tokyo is a clean, beautiful, interesting city and does not at all deserve the bad rap it has received internationally.

For me, there are 2 cities in the world that shine as beautiful and interesting places: London and Tokyo. Both of these cities are large, busy places that have not allowed themselves to forget history or beauty. Many parks and historical sites make these cities wonderful places to spend time. They are both very modern places with everything available to the visitor and many things taking place that one wouldn’t want to miss.

The skyscrapers of Shinjuku

So how did Tokyo get such a bad reputation among westerners? I think it’s a combination of things, really.

1) Japan is a foreign place where westerners often feel isolated and overwhelmed. I have traveled to Japan many times with westerners who suffered from culture shock and couldn’t adjust to Japan. Tokyo was the first and last place (sometimes the only place) they saw in Japan so they associate their bad impressions of Japan with Tokyo.

2) Japan is a modern city. Due to the rebuilding after the bombings of World War II and major earthquakes many of Tokyo’s older buildings simply aren’t around any more. This is unfortunate (or not, depending on how those buildings looked) but the new buildings that have been built are very nice. Tokyo has a much higher percentage of new construction than most major cities in the world. Many people react to this negatively but I think it creates a charm all its own. I like the sleek, often futuristic, look that many parts of the city has to offer. Their new buildings certainly aren’t as ugly as many of the new buildings I saw in Europe. What bothers me, however, is how often people fail to mention all the attractive old buildings that still stand.

3) Japan is a bustling city. As the capital of an active, modern nation and its busiest port of commerce Tokyo is a happening place. A lot of people, traffic and money move through this city. One would think this would make the city a madhouse but it really isn’t. The Japanese are polite and efficient (two qualities that repel many westerners I’ve known) and those qualities are reflected all through the city. It isn’t long before a person can figure out how the train stations and traffic work and then the city lies at your feet. However, in my experience, many westerners take a look at all the motion and activity in Tokyo and simply can’t adjust.

4) Japanese architecture differs from what westerners are used to. Not in any dramatic sense but the differences are there to see. One example is local laws prohibit buildings from blocking sunlight to other buildings in certain instances. As a result, some buildings have angled, triangular looking tops rather than squared. I think it adds to the interest of the city but many westerners have remarked on how they look “bizarre.”

5) Above all, Tokyo’s bad reputation continues because once an idea is planted in peoples’ minds it is very difficult to remove it. Many people believe the entries they read in their guide books describing Tokyo as ugly. Many of the guide book writers seem to be copying older accounts of Tokyo that they’ve read. They probably fear being seen as ignorant if they don’t repeat the popular wisdom.

A great solution to this problem would be to visit Tokyo and see for yourself. For those who can’t, I’ve included a few photos on this page to show some of the spots I visited in 2006. Enjoy.

The busy streets of the Ginza district

The busy streets of the Ginza district

Shopping in Akihabara

Near Mitsukoshi in Nihombashi

Near Mitsukoshi in Nihombashi

Harajuku station

A shopping street in Harajuku

The front entrance

In Nihombashi, Tokyo I found the flagship store for Mitsukoshi, a chain of department stores in Japan. Here it is on the map. Mitsukoshi is the oldest still-operating department store company in the world. It was founded in 1673 with the shop name “Echigoya.” Ten years later, Echigoya took a new approach to marketing. Instead of selling by going door-to-door, they set up a store where buyers could purchase goods. They must have known what they were doing because their flagship store is simply amazing.

Mitsukoshi is an upscale department store with high prices so I’ve never shopped there but that didn’t stop me from visiting in May 2006. The store is very elegant with a large number of art pieces on display. The twin lions outside their front door are modeled on the lions of London’s Trafalgar Square. The immense statue inside, if I remember correctly, is Amaterasu the sun goddess of Shinto mythology when she emerged from hiding in a cave. The photos don’t do the statue justice. It has to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. The main foyer where the Amaterasu statue is displayed is a work of art itself. Behind the Amaterasu statue visitors can see a vintage pipe organ on display.

The store is quite large and not only features a dizzying array of things for sale but also contains small art galleries on different floors. I really enjoyed the crystal display they had on the day I visited. Many exquisite crystal dishes, vases, etc. were being shown in a gallery near the top floor.

The majority of the patrons of Mitsukoshi are older, well-to-do people. It was a fun experience walking the hallways of the various departments seeing so many well-dressed Japanese people. Visiting Mitukoshi’s flagship store in Nihombashi is a truly upscale experience and I can’t recommend it enough. Who knew a department store could be so much fun?

I first saw this screen in 1991 when I was 17. They were promoting Okamura Takako‘s new single Invincible Career Girl so the music video was playing on the side of the building. I was truly impressed. The day these photos were taken they were running weather reports and dopey commercials although I’ve heard they still play music videos.

Right behind Studio Alta is a series of car-free alleyways with lots of good shopping. Last time I was there I ducked into a hobby shop and bought large, roll-up flags from the UC Gundam universe. Shinjuku is a great place to go exploring and Studio Alta is a great place to start.